As we drove the 12 hours from Fairbanks toward Wrangell-St. Elias National Park (it took a bit longer since we stopped several times to take these pictures), we started to see more ice and more mountains, and already started to learn more about how this spectacular place works.
In the 1930s, the Black Rapids Glacier above (see the “river” of ice between the two mountains in the foreground) was much more extensive than it is today. You can see the remoteness of this place even now, and imagine, 80 years ago, going to the authorities and telling them that you saw and heard “black and white ice thundering into the mossy valley” – and through your backyard. They wouldn’t have believed you at the time, but that did happen at Black Rapids Glacier, which is known as a surging glacier. Over the last several decades, the US Geological Survey and the University of Alaska have monitored the glacier, to keep track of the mass balance of ice (it is decreasing) and ice velocity (yes, it is moving). And one more reason to be concerned about the glacier potentially surging again – the Alaska oil pipeline nearby.
As we continued the drive southeast, we followed right alongside the famous Alaska oil pipeline (above), for part of its 800 mile length from the northern to southern coast of Alaska. Hundreds of thousands of barrels worth of oil move through the pipeline each day, and if you really look, you’ll notice a couple unique design features. First of all, the pipeline jogs through the landscape on a seemingly random zigzag path. Secondly, parts of the pipe sit on long steel beams. Why is this? Because it has to withstand whatever Earth can throw at it. If temperatures reach 80 Fahrenheit in the summer and -50 Fahrenheit in the winter, the zigzag allows it to expand and contract with the temperature. And if there is an earthquake, the pipe can just slide back and forth on those beams without bursting, moving right along with the Earth.
After some more gushing rivers, breathtaking mountains, and even a couple of rainbows, we came upon the Gulkana Glacier (above, you can see it “flowing” down between the mountains). This glacier is special because it is one of three glaciers that the US Geological Survey has been monitoring long-term to study the effects of climate change. Since 1966, the ice mass has been decreasing and the motion of the ice has slowed, causing the glacier to “retreat.” But if you have ever wanted to ski or snowmobile on a glacier, come to this glacier in April for the annual Arctic Man event! Just be careful – you’re on a glacier.
